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Corvette Forum Archive (38 950 posts)
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Subject:
Re: Value of `71?
From: WayneC <WayneC(at)linkline.moc>
Subject: Re: Value of `71?
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2005 11:23:52 -0800
Lines: 36
________________________________________________
tony kujawa wrote:
> There is a red `71 by me for sale and I`d like to know if it is worth
> looking at or not. I have not seen it yet, but am going tomorrow or
> Saturday. 350 (Not original) 4 speed, A/C, PW, $8500. I had a 68 about 6
> years ago that was a decent driver that I bought and sold for $6500. I`m
> sure that very car would fetch 10K today. All that being said, if this 71
> is in the same shape as my 68 was, I`m jumping on it. I guess I just need
> some confirmation of what you all think. I`m just looking for a decent
> driver, no desire to restore. I knew my 68 pretty well and the inherent
> problems they had so I`m not going into this blind, I was just wondering if
> there are any frame issues I should look for. i.e. weak spots where it may
> rust out etc.
>
> Thanks, Tony
>
>
Should be well worth the money if it`s a decent driver (even more so if
it`s a convertible).
Check for an even fit of the doors to the body, large differences in
spacing along the front and rear vertical edges from the top to the
bottom can be a harbinger of frame rust or collision damage.
Look for serious rust in the area where the trailing arms bolt to the
frame (forward of the rear wheel kickups) and for signs of rust in the
metal birdcage around the front of the door openings (especially inside
the hinge pockets, and where the pillar meets the doorsill) and around
the windshield (you may have to lift carpet and peer up under the dash
with a flashlight, etc). Frame rust can be repaired (or the frame
replaced), but that`s very expensive; serious birdcage rust is
definitely a deal-breaker.
Look for signs of body damage on the underside of panels and around
headlights and wheel wells, and for telltale serious stress cracking in
the paint, because repair and repaint will cost more than you pay for
the car. Window relacement isn`t cheap, either.
SUBJECT: Re: Value of `71?
From: "tony kujawa" <tjktjk2003(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Value of `71?
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2005 14:28:41 -0500
Lines: 51
________________________________________________
"WayneC" <WayneC(at)linkline.moc> wrote in message
news:111sae2t59k8f23(at)corp.supernews.com...
> tony kujawa wrote:
> > There is a red `71 by me for sale and I`d like to know if it is worth
> > looking at or not. I have not seen it yet, but am going tomorrow or
> > Saturday. 350 (Not original) 4 speed, A/C, PW, $8500. I had a 68 about
6
> > years ago that was a decent driver that I bought and sold for $6500.
I`m
> > sure that very car would fetch 10K today. All that being said, if this
71
> > is in the same shape as my 68 was, I`m jumping on it. I guess I just
need
> > some confirmation of what you all think. I`m just looking for a decent
> > driver, no desire to restore. I knew my 68 pretty well and the inherent
> > problems they had so I`m not going into this blind, I was just wondering
if
> > there are any frame issues I should look for. i.e. weak spots where it
may
> > rust out etc.
> >
> > Thanks, Tony
> >
> >
> Should be well worth the money if it`s a decent driver (even more so if
> it`s a convertible).
>
> Check for an even fit of the doors to the body, large differences in
> spacing along the front and rear vertical edges from the top to the
> bottom can be a harbinger of frame rust or collision damage.
>
> Look for serious rust in the area where the trailing arms bolt to the
> frame (forward of the rear wheel kickups) and for signs of rust in the
> metal birdcage around the front of the door openings (especially inside
> the hinge pockets, and where the pillar meets the doorsill) and around
> the windshield (you may have to lift carpet and peer up under the dash
> with a flashlight, etc). Frame rust can be repaired (or the frame
> replaced), but that`s very expensive; serious birdcage rust is
> definitely a deal-breaker.
>
> Look for signs of body damage on the underside of panels and around
> headlights and wheel wells, and for telltale serious stress cracking in
> the paint, because repair and repaint will cost more than you pay for
> the car. Window relacement isn`t cheap, either.
THANKS! I`m printing this out, great advise.
Tony
From: "tony kujawa" <tjktjk2003(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Value of `71?
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2005 14:28:41 -0500
Lines: 51
________________________________________________
"WayneC" <WayneC(at)linkline.moc> wrote in message
news:111sae2t59k8f23(at)corp.supernews.com...
> tony kujawa wrote:
> > There is a red `71 by me for sale and I`d like to know if it is worth
> > looking at or not. I have not seen it yet, but am going tomorrow or
> > Saturday. 350 (Not original) 4 speed, A/C, PW, $8500. I had a 68 about
6
> > years ago that was a decent driver that I bought and sold for $6500.
I`m
> > sure that very car would fetch 10K today. All that being said, if this
71
> > is in the same shape as my 68 was, I`m jumping on it. I guess I just
need
> > some confirmation of what you all think. I`m just looking for a decent
> > driver, no desire to restore. I knew my 68 pretty well and the inherent
> > problems they had so I`m not going into this blind, I was just wondering
if
> > there are any frame issues I should look for. i.e. weak spots where it
may
> > rust out etc.
> >
> > Thanks, Tony
> >
> >
> Should be well worth the money if it`s a decent driver (even more so if
> it`s a convertible).
>
> Check for an even fit of the doors to the body, large differences in
> spacing along the front and rear vertical edges from the top to the
> bottom can be a harbinger of frame rust or collision damage.
>
> Look for serious rust in the area where the trailing arms bolt to the
> frame (forward of the rear wheel kickups) and for signs of rust in the
> metal birdcage around the front of the door openings (especially inside
> the hinge pockets, and where the pillar meets the doorsill) and around
> the windshield (you may have to lift carpet and peer up under the dash
> with a flashlight, etc). Frame rust can be repaired (or the frame
> replaced), but that`s very expensive; serious birdcage rust is
> definitely a deal-breaker.
>
> Look for signs of body damage on the underside of panels and around
> headlights and wheel wells, and for telltale serious stress cracking in
> the paint, because repair and repaint will cost more than you pay for
> the car. Window relacement isn`t cheap, either.
THANKS! I`m printing this out, great advise.
Tony
From: Bob G. <rg327_remove_(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: Value of `71?
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2005 16:44:43 -0500
Lines: 33
NNTP-Posting-Host: 24.49.37.230
________________________________________________
On Thu, 24 Feb 2005 12:55:19 -0500, "tony kujawa"
<tjktjk2003(at)yahoo.com> wrote:
>There is a red `71 by me for sale and I`d like to know if it is worth
>looking at or not. I have not seen it yet, but am going tomorrow or
>Saturday. 350 (Not original) 4 speed, A/C, PW, $8500. I had a 68 about 6
>years ago that was a decent driver that I bought and sold for $6500. I`m
>sure that very car would fetch 10K today. All that being said, if this 71
>is in the same shape as my 68 was, I`m jumping on it. I guess I just need
>some confirmation of what you all think. I`m just looking for a decent
>driver, no desire to restore. I knew my 68 pretty well and the inherent
>problems they had so I`m not going into this blind, I was just wondering if
>there are any frame issues I should look for. i.e. weak spots where it may
>rust out etc.
>
>Thanks, Tony
>
====================
Impossible to even give an opinion....
That said you should have enough experience gained via your 68 to make
a reasonable decision...
That said...my NOM 72 Ragtop would NOT leave my hands for twice the
asking price of this 71 and it is nowhere near "perfect" .t even if it
were for sale...
Look it over.. see what it needs then walk or buy
Bob Griffiths
64 72 76 79 & 95 Corvettes
Come to think of it NONE of my Corvettes wouild leave my hands for
$8500.
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Title: Tuning: Mansory CYRUS based on Aston Martin DBS or DB9
Date: Thu, 24 Sep 2009 12:15:13 +0000
Author: Trance4you
Mansory tuning house presents the Cyrus aerodynamic kit for the the Aston Martin DBS or the DB9. The Cyrus emphasises masculinity and power with the carbon fibre wing extensions, newly designed rear skirt with the integrated diffuser and provides space for four stainless steel and pipes of the sonorous sport exhaust system.
The two slotted right domes on the carbon fibre bonnet send extra air into the 12 cylinder engine. The car squats on large 9×20 front and 10.5×21 rear specially-insincere striking rims wrapped in 255/30ZR20 front and 295/25ZR21 rear Dunlop Sport Maxx tyres. The coilover suspension has been adjusted to lower the centre of gravity and upgrade street property for providing the best road holding.
Read more (details and photos)!!
Mansory’s definition of luxury extends to the interior where tailor-made carbon fibre parts are found. They involve some bits from the console, the centre console and the re-designed steering controls. Foot gearshift was made of aluminium while the door sills and head rests feature embroidered CYRUS logos. Hand-stitched leather covers the seats, parts of the dashboard and inside the door panels.
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